Puyuhuapi to Puerto Aisen to Coihaique

A comfortable night in the second best hostals we have stayed in so far, good hot water, hot homemade German bread for breakfast and super soft beds. The hostal is owned by a German lady who has lived here for 53 years. What we are finding is that most of the hostals are owned and run by widows as a means of income. Most are good and include breakfast in the price. The best so far and highly recommended is La Casa de Henao in Valpariso. A lovely place run by a lovely family. Very had to leave this truely historic home.
The ride to Puerto Aisen started out fine but soon developed into full rain by the time we had to cross the mountain pass, with the gravel road starting to cut up in places. Stopped at Park National Queulat to see the hanging glacier, in the rain and was told by others that a 3 year old girl had recently been snatched off the trail by a Puma and you needed to travel with 3 or more people. We were covered.
Puerto Aisen was our planned stop as we were going to try and catch the ferry down to see the San Rafael glacier that is one of the few glaciers that flow directly into the sea. It is receding at a rate of 200m a year due to global warming. This was not going to be a happening thing. With one boat broken down and the other charging  $350US per person we gave it a miss.
A cold wet night was spent in Puerto Aisen drying out jackets and gloves ready for the morning.
Next day it was a ride to Coihaique. With all the rain from the day before we were treated to some spectacular waterfalls and the sun was out in full force. By the time we arrived at Coihaique it was raining again with snow in the air.
Coihaique is a lovely modern town and we have had a forced rest for 4 days due to the road being closed with snow, so have had the time to check the bike over and try and find somewhere that serves vegies. They are not big on the veg here and you start to crave them after a while.