Saturday, December 26, 2009

Merry Christmas



















Merry Christmas from Nazca.




We are spending the Christmas period here in Nazca at a lovely hostel near the centre of town. Christmas kicked off at midnight on Christmas night with massive, personal fireworks throughout the town, from crackers to rockets and everyone gives it heaps, sounds like a real war zone with rockets screaming overhead in any direction. Ah the smell of gunpowder in the air.

Everybody sits down to family dinners after midnight and the music and celebrations carry on till daybreak.

I write this and its 7.30am Christmas morning and its still all go in the plaza. It may be a long day ahead.

We arrived in Nazca after two days riding from Cusco. Annette in a taxi lead us out of Cusco on the road north and east to the Pacific coast. We spent those two days firstly dropping down into fertile valleys, growing all manner of crops, then climbing back up to over 4300 metres onto the alto plano before dropping down to around the 3000 metre mark into another valley. The whole journey was twists and turns, a bikers heaven.

You rode slow as animals ruled the road at every turn and every dam dog just wanted to chase wheels. I don’t know what it is, but cars and trucks they can lie there and not bat an eye lid, but as soon as they see the bike its like a switch is flipped and off they go, and once one runs the others join in so that soon you have three or four dogs of all shapes and sizes tearing down the road after us. The ones to watch are the silent ones that come running with no warning out from a concealed position with no noise, but nothing a kick in the head has not fixed.
We ended up having everything from broken down trucks, crashed buses and land slides due to the rainy season starting in the central Ande

All the time as we neared the coast the vegetation changed and the temperature increased. We were nearing Peru’s coastal desert. After the last high pass we could see the coastal region and were soon looking down on the worlds largest sand dune, (in two photos). Truly a massive mountain of sand and how did it get there? It really does mark the landscape. What followed was a broken pot-holed road of steep winding descent to near sea level and being hit by the hot dry desert winds.

Nazca, a dusty desert town with the hustle and bustle of markets, masses of people and plastic bags everywhere but these places have a life and character all of their own and each one is quite unique.

Now we don’t see what we used to notice when we first arrived in South America. This is just the way it is here.

The flight over the Nazca lines was something else. Very bumpy with the desert thermals and when you are twisting and turning at 90 degrees to the earth so that everyone gets to see the images on the sand, well all I can say is I didn’t take many photos and my eye was on the nearest plastic bag. I did warn the pilot before hand that any mad flying and he would wear it. A grin from him then you’re strapped in.

Annette had a fun time but the other four of us left the plane in silence and headed for the shade and a seat in peace and quiet. Never again in a small plane that close to the ground., give me the bike any day.

Annette has that pilot’s grin.

Well, Merry Christmas to you all. We hope you all have a good time with your families around. We have spoken to ours and miss them all very much. Don’t overdo the Christmas pudding and make sure you get a good rest before the New Year celebrations kick off for 2010.






Monday, December 21, 2009

This is not looking good









Time to do the tourist thing for the day, which meant a day off the bike and a day on Lake Titicaca visiting the reed islands and other outlying islands by boat and a slow boat at that.


Soon it was back to the cause and time to head to Cusco. No, you will have to stay another day as the road is closed due to demonstrations. Ok, we will wait till tomorrow, no problem.

Tomorrow comes, the road is open so we make an early start for Cusco. A good mornings ride has us needing fuel and we can not find any 90 octane anywhere. The protests and road closures mean the fuel stations are running low, so it looks like it will have to be that crap 84 again, not good.

About half way into the day rocks soon appear on the road, then many big rocks, then total rocks all over the road. This is not looking good. Soon a line of trucks appear and a mass of people on the road side all yelling and waving banners. We ride, weaving through the rocks to the head of the queue and encounter a gravel barrier with wire strung across the top. This is not looking good.

A wave and a smile to the head man and he agrees to let us through, his beef is not with us but the local government who have kept the funds their area has been allocated for roading. We ride slowly through the crowd and are again stopped. This is not looking good.

Sorry, you can not proceed until we paint some protest slogans on your panniers. This is again not looking good.

We let them paint one side pannier and motor off before they attack the other side. Not far down the road we stop and wash of the paint before it dries. This is South America and what a day and we are riding a KTM ADVENTURE.

Cusco soon comes into view and we head for the central plaza to find the accommodation we have been told about, but the bike has other ideas. This bloody 84 fuel is coming back to haunt us again. As soon as we hit idle speed in the traffic the bike chokes, coughs and splutters and soon dies and wont start again. Not a good place to happen on a three lane street with all the taxis racing for that last spot in front of the other guy. This is bloody well not looking good. What now.

Once the engine cools we manage to get round a roundabout and back to a garage we passed on the way in. For the next hour Annette and I have an audience as we remove the tanks and drain all the crap fuel from the bike, reassemble then fill with sweet 90 octane.

The beer tasted real good that night we can tell you and what an amazing old city Cusco is. We spend hours in the Norton Pub on the old balcony watching Cusco go about its business.

For the next few days we do the tourist thing here in Cusco, replace the rear brake pads and try to work out where we will be for Christmas. This is looking good.